"This Philippine cuisine takes fish and other sea creatures, meat, fruits or vegetables- all at state- of- the- art freshness - and treats them equally, "sour-cooking" them in vinegar or other souring agents, flavoring them with the proper combination of condiments...
The kinilaw moment is that instant when the raw fish (or other
seafood, or meat) meets the vinegar or other souring agent, and
transformation begins from the raw state.
In cooking vegetables, there is a spectrum of textural change: from the
hardness of the raw, to the limpness of the overcooked. The perfect
moment is somewhere along the line, at the point when the vegetable,
e.g. ampalaya (bitter melon) retains the crispness of the raw, but
acquires the softness of the cooked without being either hard or limp.
With kinilaw, the perfect moment is marked visually by a change from
translucence towards, but without reaching, opacity. Texturally, it is
a moment when the fish or shrimp retains the firm softness of the raw,
but reaches a new state of being that has been called niluto sa asim -
"cooked", or more accurately transformed, in sourness. It is not an
opaque solidity, with the fibres white and the flesh texture that of
poached fish. Along the spectrum, it is nearer the raw than the cooked,
the flesh just a breath away from the natural state, mediated only by
the vinegar-acid..."
'Kinilaw: a Philippine Cuisine of Freshness' - by Edilberto N. Alegre & Doreen G. Fernandez 1991
[Photo: Lindo Gigante]
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